July 2012
This trip doesn't really count as solitary travel, even if it did start that way. Due to the location of Stonehenge, right by a highway without access other than by road, I decided it'd be simpler to take a tour, especially since there is one that leaves from Cambridge. It ended up being a great option for this particular trip. The tour guide knew a ton of interesting things about Stonehenge (and was much more enjoyable to listen to than the audio tour) and about Bath. Also, I ended up making a travel buddy along the way... so one less solitary journey. ;)
Honestly, when our tour guide began telling us the theories about how Stonehenge was made, my first impression was that these people were absolutely crazy. I mean, they used several types of stone all found in different location, the furthest ones were transported 240 km while the largest stones, although closer, weighed up to 40 tons and probably took 200 plus people dragging (the wheel hadn't reached England yet), maybe on logs, over 12 days to move them to their new location. And that's just because they insisted on using these particular stones found in very specific locations. And that's only the part of the story where they moved the massive stones. The actual construction of Stonehenge only adds to the insanity of the lengths these ancient people went through to create what, a glorified calendar? (Stonehenge lovers, don't freak, my opinion does change)
As archeological evidence from the capital-sized city the creators of Stonehenge probably lived in shows, the people quite easily made a just as useful calendar out of logs in the center of town. Our tour guide described the likely scenario for the actual use of Stonehenge. In addition to being a spiritual temple type site, with its special stone that glitters once a year when the sunrise hits it exactly on the summer solstice, and perhaps believed to have healing or other mystical qualities, it was likely a massive graveyard, the resting place for the ashes of the people of the city, scattered at Stonehenge once a year in a ceremony during the winter solstice. Stonehenge was well removed from the city, likely due both to its significance and its use as a place for the dead, while the wooden, living, version was in the center of daily city life.
It seems like so much effort to go through for a calendar. Of course, it was much more than that to the people who built it, but still.... an awful lot of trouble. But, on the other hand, it represents a lot more. I mean, I still am in a bit of shock that people would go through such lengths to create something like this, but maybe I shouldn't be. Maybe, instead, I should be angry that people, as a collective, don't still think such endeavors are worthwhile. It was an incredibly feat of effort and ingenuity and an amazing display of belief and passion. (To be fair, we don't know how the actual labors were treated, but with the large proportion of people needed to move the stones in relation to the number of people who likely lived in the city, I'd like to think there was more of a communal aspect to this project than to many of history's other great architectural achievements.)
As to my impressions of Stonehenge itself, it really is incredible. You can't help but appreciate the significance of the place. I can understand the spiritual connection many feel there. Of course, it was raining. It was also absolutely freezing (in July!) and I was definitely not wearing enough layers. But, the weather only seemed to add to the effect of the atmosphere. It was mysterious and a bit mystical. I know it was originally meant as a calendar requiring the sun to work effectively, but I really couldn't imagine Stonehenge any other way. The gloom just fit.
The lands around Stonehenge were really pretty, with large grassy hills and fields full of flowers. On a nicer day I would have loved to explore. But, as it was, I was more than happy to get back on the bus and head to Bath. (Luckily, it was a bit warmer and the rain had mostly stopped.)
I didn't know what Bath looked like before going there and I was really curious as to why everyone told me it was a must-see location. I did not have to wait long for that answer. Upon approaching you could see mountains covered in houses, it was breathtaking. I definitely would not mind living in one of those houses!
Once into the city we saw lines of buildings all looking quite similar and made from the same Bath stone (both due to city laws). This gave the whole place a charming feel, transporting you back to the Georgian era, the era of Jane Austen. (I really should read Northanger Abbey, a satire of Bath society Austen wrote while living there)
Everything in Bath had a sense of continuity, simultaneously giving the place a feel of grandness (I mean, imagine if the lines of houses were all one) and smallness (there was a sameness that gave things a familiar feel, as if you really weren't going far). And absolutely everything was inspired by the Roman empire, from the columns on the houses, to the Colosseum shaped ring of houses called The Circus, to the bridge taken from unwanted Italian blueprints,... Rome was clearly the prevalent theme.
I enjoyed strolling around the city. It was quaint and relaxing. While looking down side streets filled with little shops and pubs you could often still catch a glimpse of the house-strewn hills in the distance. I absolutely love it. I also joined my tour group for a quick tour of the sites a bit further from the city center. These were the famous rows of houses, The Circus and the Royal Crescent.
The buildings were amazing, yes, but living there... I don't know. It costs millions of pounds to live one of these places and while the view is nice and the prestige of living in a famous location might be nice, think of the restrictions! You can't remodel or alter the architecture in any way, you can't post signs and such (one hotel had to plant a tree to let guests know where it was because signage is not allowed). On top of it all, you have tourists constantly outside, taking pictures, likely including you every once and a while, making noise, and just generally gawking at your place of residence. I'm not really sure it would be worth it....
On that note,... I had a great trip to Stonehenge and Bath and would definitely recommend. The tour was well suited for this particular trip. The experience in both locations were definitely enhanced by the knowledge of a tour guide. I would love to go back to Bath and perhaps, weather permitting, explore the surrounding countryside.
This trip doesn't really count as solitary travel, even if it did start that way. Due to the location of Stonehenge, right by a highway without access other than by road, I decided it'd be simpler to take a tour, especially since there is one that leaves from Cambridge. It ended up being a great option for this particular trip. The tour guide knew a ton of interesting things about Stonehenge (and was much more enjoyable to listen to than the audio tour) and about Bath. Also, I ended up making a travel buddy along the way... so one less solitary journey. ;)
Honestly, when our tour guide began telling us the theories about how Stonehenge was made, my first impression was that these people were absolutely crazy. I mean, they used several types of stone all found in different location, the furthest ones were transported 240 km while the largest stones, although closer, weighed up to 40 tons and probably took 200 plus people dragging (the wheel hadn't reached England yet), maybe on logs, over 12 days to move them to their new location. And that's just because they insisted on using these particular stones found in very specific locations. And that's only the part of the story where they moved the massive stones. The actual construction of Stonehenge only adds to the insanity of the lengths these ancient people went through to create what, a glorified calendar? (Stonehenge lovers, don't freak, my opinion does change)
As archeological evidence from the capital-sized city the creators of Stonehenge probably lived in shows, the people quite easily made a just as useful calendar out of logs in the center of town. Our tour guide described the likely scenario for the actual use of Stonehenge. In addition to being a spiritual temple type site, with its special stone that glitters once a year when the sunrise hits it exactly on the summer solstice, and perhaps believed to have healing or other mystical qualities, it was likely a massive graveyard, the resting place for the ashes of the people of the city, scattered at Stonehenge once a year in a ceremony during the winter solstice. Stonehenge was well removed from the city, likely due both to its significance and its use as a place for the dead, while the wooden, living, version was in the center of daily city life.
It seems like so much effort to go through for a calendar. Of course, it was much more than that to the people who built it, but still.... an awful lot of trouble. But, on the other hand, it represents a lot more. I mean, I still am in a bit of shock that people would go through such lengths to create something like this, but maybe I shouldn't be. Maybe, instead, I should be angry that people, as a collective, don't still think such endeavors are worthwhile. It was an incredibly feat of effort and ingenuity and an amazing display of belief and passion. (To be fair, we don't know how the actual labors were treated, but with the large proportion of people needed to move the stones in relation to the number of people who likely lived in the city, I'd like to think there was more of a communal aspect to this project than to many of history's other great architectural achievements.)
As to my impressions of Stonehenge itself, it really is incredible. You can't help but appreciate the significance of the place. I can understand the spiritual connection many feel there. Of course, it was raining. It was also absolutely freezing (in July!) and I was definitely not wearing enough layers. But, the weather only seemed to add to the effect of the atmosphere. It was mysterious and a bit mystical. I know it was originally meant as a calendar requiring the sun to work effectively, but I really couldn't imagine Stonehenge any other way. The gloom just fit.
The lands around Stonehenge were really pretty, with large grassy hills and fields full of flowers. On a nicer day I would have loved to explore. But, as it was, I was more than happy to get back on the bus and head to Bath. (Luckily, it was a bit warmer and the rain had mostly stopped.)
I didn't know what Bath looked like before going there and I was really curious as to why everyone told me it was a must-see location. I did not have to wait long for that answer. Upon approaching you could see mountains covered in houses, it was breathtaking. I definitely would not mind living in one of those houses!
Once into the city we saw lines of buildings all looking quite similar and made from the same Bath stone (both due to city laws). This gave the whole place a charming feel, transporting you back to the Georgian era, the era of Jane Austen. (I really should read Northanger Abbey, a satire of Bath society Austen wrote while living there)
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| Roman Baths and Bath Abbey |
The buildings were amazing, yes, but living there... I don't know. It costs millions of pounds to live one of these places and while the view is nice and the prestige of living in a famous location might be nice, think of the restrictions! You can't remodel or alter the architecture in any way, you can't post signs and such (one hotel had to plant a tree to let guests know where it was because signage is not allowed). On top of it all, you have tourists constantly outside, taking pictures, likely including you every once and a while, making noise, and just generally gawking at your place of residence. I'm not really sure it would be worth it....
On that note,... I had a great trip to Stonehenge and Bath and would definitely recommend. The tour was well suited for this particular trip. The experience in both locations were definitely enhanced by the knowledge of a tour guide. I would love to go back to Bath and perhaps, weather permitting, explore the surrounding countryside.
